Bits and pieces



Winter has finally given way to spring and summer is nearly here. I’ve been out of the water for months. I would love to blame the cold winter from my surf hiatus, but instead an injury kept me on land and out of the water.


After weeks of rest, recovery, and physical therapy I finally feel strong enough to get back in the water. To say I am rusty would be an understatement; I actually feel I am demonstrating all of the things not to do while surfing. So I’ve been trying to manage my time in the water by avoiding crowds, this way I am a danger to far less people.


To compound my reintroduction to surf, because of the nature of my leg injury I’ve decided a change was needed to protect my leg from getting reinjured. Since I began surfing I’ve always had a regular stance, which means my right leg is in the back and the leash goes on that leg. My right leg is my bum leg. So I’ve been learning to surf goofy, putting my left leg back and right leg forward.


In many ways it feels like learning from scratch. Right now my brain is wired to pop up the same way I’ve always done it. Telling my head to do it a new way is no easy feat. But it is coming along, although it is in bits and pieces.


I have moments where it makes sense followed by moments of what do I do next. I get the pop up but I can’t manage the turn. I make the turn but immediately fall. I catch the wave and look down at my feet. And everything is moving so fast; my brain can’t process it quickly enough.


Hopefully soon I will be able to string together each glimpse of surfing and it will start to feel more like the real thing. In the mean time, I’m just happy to be back out in the water because I’ve been Vitamin Sea deficient.


You call that a massage?


After several weeks of visiting the physical therapist I now have an aversion to a deep tissue massage. I rarely go out and pay someone to manually loosen my muscles and on the occasion that I have it has been a relatively pleasant experience. But after getting my calf worked on I now cringe when I hear the word massage.


The latest massage resulted in immense pain, hitting a nerve (literally), and bruising.


Fun, right? So where I sign up for another one?


I can’t complain too much because if we don’t work out the knots and tightness it puts extra strain on the tendon that has a partial tear.


However, the next time someone suggest a massage, I might have to pass because I don’t want to have physical therapy flashbacks when I am supposed to be relaxing.


Why do I work out?



The weather is finally getting nice. So I’ve had the chance to wear shorts. What I discovered when I put on my shorts is they don’t quite fit as nicely as they did last summer.


I guess that happens when you spend a long winter not exercising. I’ve been trying to eat healthy, though I don’t always succeed. And I know that working out plays a role in body shaping, which helps me fit into my clothes.


This got me thinking, why do I work out? Is it to look a certain way? Or is it to be a healthy person? Or perhaps it is a little of both.


The Most Beautiful Drive of Your Life – Big Sur


Ryan Struck Photography

California’s Pacific Coast Highway is one of the most epic destinations for any road tripper. Set amongst the coastal redwoods and marble cliffs, Big Sur is a sight. Even the most travel weathered explorer is compelled to stop and drink in the calming vistas.

After camping the Southwest the week prior (Mojave, Glen Canyon, Zion and Grand Canyon) I was off to Santa Cruz to shoot some surfing and film for a video profile about my work. A few days in SC provided ample opportunity to catch up with friends, find some new ones, and make some interesting images for a future magazine article. Verve Coffee is my go to spot in town in case you were wondering.

On my journey South I decided it appropriate to take the detour along California State Route 1 to see what I can see. I timed the drive in conjunction with the setting…

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I took a walk


October is when I hurt my knee.


March is when I hurt my ankle.


Now it’s May, almost the middle of the month. I’ve moved well beyond weeks, now I get to say how many months ago it has been since I hurt myself.


Progress is slow and sometimes I forget that it is still progress and that means improvement.


I have move beyond sitting with my foot propped up. Now I am getting encouragement to use the stationary bike and to go for walks. (We misjudged the projected date for running and will have to reassess that in another 3-4 weeks). I’ve also added yoga back into my routine and last weekend I took the board out for some time on the water.


Lately I find myself getting frustrated because I get hung up on the things I used to be able to do. In some ways, I am still coming to terms with the sense of loss. I think I need to redefine progress to not be what I used to be able to do, but need to see it more as what I can do now.


It wasn’t long ago when I couldn’t even go out and take a walk. I guess a walk is a step in the right direction.